By Penang
Also known as Pulau Pinang, (Pinang meaning Betal Nut), the Pearl of the Orient has a rich history and was one of the 3 Straits Settlements founded by the British East India Company. Penang is famed for their Peranakan heritage. George Town is a UNESCO world heritage site. Enjoy her street art, culture and its wonderful array of local eats.
This piece focuses on the food in and around George Town. If you have time to spare, do head up to Batu Ferringhi for some sun and sea. I find that commuting from Batu Ferringhi to the food location isn’t so convenient. It would be best to base yourself along Gurney Drive or in George Town itself.
Getting About
Grab is available and the best way for getting round.
Ipoh to Penang
The drive to Penang from Ipoh take around 2 hours – depending on the traffic. We left Ipoh after lunch (2:30pm) and arrived into Penang just before 6pm. Enjoy the scenic drive.
Itinerary
| Day 1 | Dinner : Beso Rosado |
| Day 2 | Breakfast : Pulau Tikkus Market (Hokkien Mee, Kway Teow Tng, Apom, You Teow) Morning Tea : Tiger Char Kway Teow & Kway Teow Soup, Lo Bak Lunch : Teksin Restaurant Tea : China House Dinner : Hamburger at Gurney |
| Day 3 | Breakfast : Cathay Kopi Kedai Lunch : Siam Road Char Kway Teow, 2 Sister’s Curry Mee Dinner : Backdoor Bodega Supper : Soup Kambing |
| Day 4 | Breakfast : MacAlister Lane Chee Cheong Fun/Kedai Fong Sui Lai/Kway Kak Lunch : Hoi An Hainanese Restaurant |
Day 1
Beso Rosado
Beso Rosado isn’t the sort of restaurant one might think of dining in when on holiday in Penang, I would however recommend this.
This was a chic restaurant cum cocktail bar. Serving a good selection of small plates that include chilled capellini this was a nice spot for a nice evening out. The cocktails are infused with local ingredients and flavours.
Address
86 Lebuh Bishop, George Town
10200 George Town
Pulau Pinang Malaysia
Day 2
Swee Kong Coffee Shop
No trip to Penang is complete without a visit to Pulau Tikkus market. The coffee shop directly across from the police station is where most of us head to. Order the Hokkien Mee, Kway Teow Soup and Apom. I have been told the wonton noodle is also good but I haven’t tried it yet.
Please get to this coffee shop by 8:30am. We went back on our 2nd day at 9am and the Hokkien Mee stall was already sold out.
After breakfast, walk down the street and meander around the stalls and the marketplace. I picked up some good household items, Chinese New Year goodies, and found a shop selling Soya Sauce and Tao Cheo (made in Penang).
Address
317 Jalan Burma
George Town – 10350 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Kafe Ping Hoi for Tiger Char Kway Teow & Kway Teow Tng
Kafe Ping Hooi is a charming corner coffee shop located in the old town. The booth seats give this coffee shop a very nostalgic feel. People head here for Tiger Char Kway Teow. You will also find at this coffee shop : Loh Bak and Chee Cheong Fun. It is a wait for your Char Kway Teow so feel free to order the Loh Bak to snack on. Next door to Kafe Ping Hooi is a coffee shop selling Kway Teow Tng. You can order your bowl of Kway Teow and they will bring it across for you.
Kway Teow Tng from next door. Definitely a must try.
Whilst waiting for your plate of char kway teow to be served, order a plate of Loh Bak to share.
There is also a stall selling Chee Cheong Fun.
Address
Kafe Ping Hooi
179 Lebuh Carnavon
George Town – 10450 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Teksen Restaurant
Reservations are absolutely necessary at this Bib Gourmand restaurant. Serving traditional Cantonese fare with a local touch since 1965, Teksen’s homemade tofu and double roasted pork are must order dishs. The atmosphere is old world and charming. Expect large groups of friends and families.
Ordered :
Assam Fish Head
Homemade Tofu
Signature Double Roasted Pork
Address
18 Lebuh Carnavon
George Town – 10100 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
China House & Sixth Sense
A friend recommended China House for cake and coffee. It is a short walk from Tek Sen so head here after your lunch. China House is part restaurant, part wine bar, part cafe. Located in a shophouse, enjoy walking through the many little rooms and soak in the atmosphere. This is a popular place so do expect a queue.
Next door to China House is Sixth Sense. A local brand that offers clothes of clean lines with a Japanese feel. It’s a nice place to take a look around. You may find yourself picking something up.
Address
China House
153 Lebuh Pantai (Beach Street)
George Town – 10300 George Town
Penang, Malaysia
Sixth Sense
157 Lebuh Pantai
George Town – 10300 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Alan’s Burger Station at Gurney
Located at the roundabout, Alan Burger is a great spot for hotdogs and burgers and to enjoy the breeze from the beachfront. The burger bun is soft and sweet and you can choose from a choice of chicken, beef, lamb or deer meat! The hotdogs are good too.
Kedai Kopi New Cathay (New Cathay Café)
This is another great coffee shop to visit for breakfast.
Recommended :
- Fish Noodles
- Hokkien Mee
- Apom
- Kway Teow Tng
- Wonton Mee.
I had originally come here for Roti Babi but this round the Roti Babi was a huge disappointment. I suspect that the stall changed ownership. Thankfully there were other dishes that made for a great breakfast.
Kedai Kopi New Cathay is home to some fabulous dishes. Perfect for breakfast or lunch.
Address
425 Jalan Burma
George Town -10350 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Siam Road Char Kway Teow
The last time I queued 2 hours. This time I queued for 1 hour. The secret here is to arrive at the stall at 11:15am.
Stand in the queue (bring an umbrella if you are afraid of the sun). At 11:30am the shutters will go up and you can go in the sit at the table (you still have to wait, but the difference here is you can sit down whilst waiting). When Uncle and his son are ready, they will give our ticket numbers and will call you to place your order in the sequence of the number. It is much more comfortable this way. In any case if you want to dine at Siam Road Char Kway Teow you must expect to queue. Whether you feel it is worth it – is personal. Siam Road’s Char Kway Teow is cooked over charcoal.
Address
82 Jalan Siam
Kek Seng
If you love history and want to reminisce of the old days I think this is a must-visit Kek Seng. Since 1906, Kek Seng has been serving fantastic homemade ice cream. Do order their ice Ka Chang and durian ice cream.
I know they serve hot food too but I haven’t been there to try.
Address
382 & 384 Jalan Penang
10000 George Town
Pulau Pinang
Malaysia
Ghee Hiang
If you want some gifts, pop into Ghee Hiang for local pastries and sesame oil. There are many branches in Penang.
Address
216 Jalan Macalister
10400 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Backdoor Bodega
Speakeasy bars in Penang? Indeed. I made reservations via email and arrived to a fashion store. Walk to the back and be led to a great speakeasy bar. The crowds come in quickly so book an early slot if you don’t like a crowd.
If you are early, head to Hin Bus Depot, a restored bus depot that now houses bespoke shops.
Depending on what time you stumble out of the bar, there is a good Sup Kambing just across the street.
Address
37 Jalan Gurdware
10300 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Sin Seow Fong Lye Café
- Chee Cheong Fun
- Kueh Kak
- Cheese & Onion Omelette
Chee Cheong Fun
The main draw was the Chee Cheong Fun. Please note that the Chee Cheong Fun stall is a pushcart located outside the café. You are permitted to sit in the coffee shop (order a drink). We queued for almost 45 minutes – because there was a large takeaway order in front of us!
What is unique at this stall is that you can order your Chee Cheong Fun 2 ways. Rolled or unrolled.
Kueh Kak
Another push cart outside Sin Seow Fong Lye Café is helmed by a very friendly lady. I ordered ta pao. This travels well so if you want you can bring it back to Singapore.
Cheese & Onion Omelette
A signature of Sin Seow Fong Lye Café, this was very interesting and I am glad I ordered it.
Air Itam Sister Curry Mee
I haven’t been back to see the 2 sisters since the pandemic. Sadly they have both retired.
Fortunately, their grandchildren are now running it. Located at the same place, the area has now been cemented, and a sink and propose stove installed. Still using charcoal to heat up the curry, this is different in style from the Ipoh Curry Mee. If you like pig’s blood this will be your dream dish.
Sit across the street to enjoy your bowl of noodles and order your drink from the drinks auntie. It is sad to see that the 2 sister’s are no longer there and that there is now a sanitized feel to the stall but I am glad that I can still get to try their unique Curry Noodles.
Address
612-T Jalan Air Itam
Pekan Ayer Itam, 11500 Ayer Itam
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Hai Oon Restaurant
I have a weakness for Roti Babi – Hai Oon was my last hope after the failure of the stall at Cathay Kedai. Hai Oon fortunately did not disappoint. Char Bee Hoon is another signature together with Chicken Chop and Hainanese Pork Chop.
This is old school cuisine. A restaurant that is steeped in time, this is old fashioned and a great spot for a piece of history.
Accommodation
The Ascott along Gurney is a great spot. Recently opened, the rooms are well appointed with a spacious living room, kitchen and laundry facilities. This is a perfect place for families. There is a roof top pool and a good sized gym.
The only minus is the location. It is a 15 minute walk to G Plaza and the Gurney Hawker Cetnre. In the evenings it is pleasant a pleasant walk but something to take note of.
Address
18 Gurney Drive
For those that prefer to be in town you can try the Citadines Connect, also managed by the Ascott Group but providing more functional services. This is also a new property.
Address
2002 Lebuh Noordin
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