By April 2024
Arrival – Sunday morning
Departure – Tuesday night
GETTING THERE
Arriving into Kansai International Airport, Osaka is easy. This is a relatively small airport with the usual airport facilities. For those looking for SIM cards, there is kiosk at the terminal for you to make your purchase.
BREAKFAST AT KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, OSAKA
If you have time to kill before boarding your train to Kyoto, head to Tasty Street, a food court that offers several dining options (self-service).
San Marco Curry
I found myself at San Marco Curry having watched too many Instagram videos on omurice.
Prepared a la minute, this was the perfect meal to kick off my planned culinary journey in the ancient Japanese capital of Kyoto.
The omurice was classic comfort food and paired so well with a mug of well chilled draft beer.
Transferring to Kyoto
With a satisfied stomach, I headed out the airport and straight to the connecting train station. There are self-ticketing machines, but I found it easier to just walk into the ticket office to book my ticket.
Several trains to Kyoto leave during the day and the ticket counter staff are helpful and friendly. The journey is extremely straight forward.
WHERE TO STAY
Mitsui Garden Shinmachi Bettei
Booked via Booking.com this was a hotel that suited my needs. Located in a residential area, this hotel is designed in the Japanese style with Japanese-styled rooms. With a Japanese hot bath located within the hotel I enjoyed my daily hot tub experience throughout my stay.
Mitsui Garden Shinmachi Bettei
Nakagyo-ku Shinmachi dori,
Rokkaku-cho 361, Japan
WHERE TO EAT
Cenci
Helmed by Chef Ken Sakamoto, Cenci opened 9 years ago. Serving Italian cuisine with Japanese ingredients an evening here is warm and welcoming.
Serving a seasonal menu with a great wine list, I enjoyed the following dishes:
Chef Sakamoto’s interpretation of the Thosai was an interesting dish. Made without yeast, this dish was inspired by his recent collaboration with Noon Restaurant in Mumbai. Using the Japanese Potato Salad as the filling for his Thosai, this mini thosai was sweeter and more gentle on the spice that the thosai we have in Singapore. Soya Milk yoghurt was used to make the “raita” with cardamon and charcoal soft clam with coriander were added for texture and flavour.
For the broth, Chef prepared a miso paste made from homemade pigeon liver, kinome leaf to add to the pigeon broth. Whole grain noodles are used with in season fermented bamboo shoot and fresh bamboo shoot.
Thank you Tetsuya Koyanagi for the warm service and explaining the ingredients and process of each dish to me.
Cenci
44-7 Shogoin Entomicho
Sakyo Ward
Kyoto
606-8323
Godan Miyazawa
8 seater Godan Miyazawa serves a kaiseki meal which focuses on seasonal ingredients. Expect a meditative experience as you experience the artistry of Chef Takatomo Izumi and his team.
The Spring menu included :
- Spring squid, mountain vegetables, Japanese orange.
- Handmade fish ball with Wild Shrimp.
- Chef’s signature : Sesame Tofu baked with Spring Vegetables.
- Tuna from Homa served on shitake mushroom.
- Japanese Grass Fed Beef topped with Brown Rice.
- Unagi – deboned and wrapped around burdock. Served with beef stock. The idea is that of Unagi + Gyuniku.
- Kyoto Crab Donabe.
Chef’s Insights
Amadai
Kyoto is famous for amadai, Chef shared that white amadai is more unique than red amadai.
Natto + Uni – a unique combination.
I was introduced to this combination by Chef. I must admit I was sceptical but was won over after tasting it.
Summary
Dine here to also appreciate the lovely antique flatware. The restaurant is nestled in the residential neighborhood along Karasuma Street not far from Gojo Station.
Note : Chef Takatomo Izuymi has since left Godan Miyazawa to start his own restaurant.
Godan Miyazawa
1 Michelin Star
557 Oecho, Shimogyo-ku
Kyoto 600-8402
Droit
Helmed by Chef Nobuyuki Morinaga a fixed menu is offered. Enter this restaurant to immediately be greeted by the open kitchen with Chef and his team at work. To the right is the wine cellar. Take a few short steps down to the elegant dining room which likens to a European cellar – with its red bricks and cement calls dining here reminds you of being in a cellar or basement.
The Menu
- Veloute of Spring Cabbage
The Veloute of Spring Cabbage flavoured with Burnt Orange was heavenly.
- Seasonal White Asparagus
Seasonal white asparagus lightly grilled with Sakura Ebi dressed with garum butter sauce. - Golden Seabream with Truffle Vinegar
Golden Seabream with black truffle vinegar and Japanese plum. - Roasted Lamb Saddle
from Yamagata prefecture.
The wine selection is European focused and Chef takes great pleasure in presenting his selection to the table for us to make our choice.
Summary
Chef was accommodating to my request for a smaller portion, I really enjoyed his delicate flavours especially the Veloute of Burnt Cabbage. The fresh verveine was an excellent ending.
Droit
49-1 Higashisakuracho
Kamigyo-ku
Kyoto
602-0858
Kenya
Helmed by the youthful Chef Kenya Sakai, this is a kaiseki meal accompanied by classical music that has been specially selected to pair with each dish.
Homemade tofu topped with white miso and a dollop of butter.
Showcasing bamboo shoots and a lovely conger eel sushi parcel. Sansho leaf with Trout daikon radish
Tai and Ika sashimi
Karasumi Mochi in clear broth with Japanese cilantro
Ika served marinated with Green Onion and Vinegar
Chef Kenya Sakai’s Char Siew is marinated with sansho pepper. Grilled over the binchotan.
Donabe with Soramame bean. Chef serves this in 2 portions, one with butter and one without.
To end the meal a bowl of warm noodles is served. Simple and delicious.
Dessert was a comforting Strawberries, black bean cake with vanilla ice cream.
Coffee to end with a classic Kyoto tea snack – ground soya bean with salt.
Chef Kenya Sakai is the winner of the Red U-35 Grand Prix award (2022) a Japanese competition that recognizes the next generation of Japanese chefs.
Summary
This was a kaiseki meal with a difference. Discovering that the Donabe can be enjoyed with just a dollop of butter to the char siew seasoned with sansho pepper was an eye-opener. A meal with this young exciting chef is one to remember.
Kenya
28-22 Obazaki Tokuseicho
Sakyo-ku
Kyoto 606-8351
Bar Rocking Chair
Helmed by Kenji Tsubokura, winner of the World Bartender of the Year Award at the International Bartender Association’s 65th World Cocktail Championships this is a walk-in only bar.
Do make an effort to come if you are into bespoke bars. In an intimate wood-centric interior, cocktails are made based on your preferences. For larger groups there are tables but I enjoyed my drink experience at the bar.
Bar Rocking Chair
434-2 Tachibanacho
Shimogyo-ku
Kyoto
600-8044
Coffee in Kyoto
Coffee Base Kanodo
Helmed by Yoshihisa Kioi Coffee Base Kanodo is located close to the Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Shijo and was a chance find. The selection for pour overs is good and my ice coffee was extremely satisfying. Whilst the ambience isn’t as chic as Here or Kurasu, I felt this served the best coffee in terms of flavour and intensity.
Coffee Base Kanodo
604-8222 Kyoto
Nakagyo Ward
Kannondocho
Here
Here coffee adopts industrial interior design. The machiatto I ordered was robust with the beans were heavily roasted.
Here
524 Anenishinotoincho,
Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto,
604-8273,
Kurasu
This pine wood designed coffee bar is inviting and offers retail as well as coffee selection. It was popular and I managed to squeeze in a seat at the bar counter.
Kurasu
604-0815
551 Yamanakacho
Nakagyo Ward
Kyoto
Hidden Kyoto
Tea Room Toka
Recommended by both Cenci and Godan Miyazawa, this is a real gem for tea lovers. Housed in an old traditional Japanese house complete with garden and all, head here for a bespoke tea tasting where no photography is permitted. After your sublime experience enjoy the tea gallery and select some organic single-plot teas as gifts for your loved ones.
Tea Room Toka
Kyoto Kamigyo-ku
Shintomi-cho 298
Sakura Viewing
If you are in Kyoto during the Cherry Blossom season you may wish to head to the following places to enjoy the cherry blossoms.
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