By UBUD, SEMINYAK, PERERENAN & JIMBARAN
March 2024
I cannot remember the last time I was in Bali – but it was certainly several years ago. The purpose of this trip was to explore the dining scene – not just the popular restaurants but the various hidden gems of Balinese cuisine and to get a feel of this magical island. This blog post does not cover any tourist attractions.
Logistics
I planned my trip to start in Ubud, before making my way down to Seminyak then to Jimbaran with the idea that it was closer to the airport (for my departure) and I could avoid an unnecessarily early departure from the hotel.
I engaged a driver for the 5 days I was in Bali. The popular areas of Ubud, Seminyak and Canggu are quite built up and the roads are narrow. Expect heavy traffic and allow plenty of time to get to your destinations. Cost for a private car and driver was around Rp800,000 a day (8 to 10 hours).
Where to stay
Staying 2 nights in Ubud, followed by another 2 nights in Seminyak and 1 night in Jimbaran, I planned the hotel choices based on my budget. I started with the lowest priced and slowly moved up to the luxury villa at the Raffles Hotel (for 1 night).
Hotel #1 – Komaneka at Monkey Forest (Ubud)
I had been introduced to the Komaneka brand on my last visit to Bali and had done some research as there are several Komaneka hotels throughout the island and particularly throughout Ubud. The property at Monkey Forest is one of the oldest (built in 1996) and though showing its age was still very charming and well kept. The rooms were spacious, especially the bathrooms, and my room had a lovely view of a padi field.
Located along Monkey Forest Road, this property is spread out and rooms are located in different 2 story blocks designed in traditional Balinese architecture and design. Large and spacious, most rooms have a view of the padi field or the swimming pool.
Breakfast is served at the charming Garden Terrace, an open air pavilion which serves food all day.
Pros
- Spacious rooms
- Tranquil whilst just being off the main street where local amenities are
- Old style Balinese design
- A nice local breakfast (selected off the menu) No buffet.
- Warm service
Cons
- As with many villa only tropical resorts, getting around the property during rainy season is inconvenient.
- Product is tired
Komaneka at Monkey Forest
Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Kecamatan Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571, Indonesia
https://komaneka.com/resort/monkey-forest/
Hotel #2 – The Oberoi Beach Resort Bali (Seminyak)
As a hotel management student in the mid 90’s, I had read so much about the Oberoi in Seminyak. Built in 1978, this hotel is aging gracefully and will still be on my list of hotels to consider when I return to Bali.
Set in lush sprawling grounds with a full beach front view, there are villa style rooms as well as Lanai rooms. These rooms are very well maintained and exude an old world charm.
Pros
- Location – located in Seminyak, the areas of
Canggu are still within easy driving distance. - The hotel has a beautiful beach front
- Luxurious and inviting lobby
- Old world charm
Cons
- As the property is spread out, during the raining season, a buggy would be required
- There are no covered pathways
- Some may find the rooms and bathrooms small
The Oberoi Beach Resort Bali
Seminyak Beach, Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak, Kuta, Bali, 80361, Indonesia
https://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-bali/
Hotel #3 – The Raffles Bali (Jimbaran Bay)
This was the only hotel during my stay that was built individual villa style. At these prices, you want to stay in, enjoy your private plunge pool and order room service.
Pros
- Ultimate privacy
- View of Jimbaran Bay
Cons
- Price
- As this is a new property, and the plants have yet to mature, there is a sense of sparseness to the hotel with minimal foliage.
The Raffles Bali
Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera No.1A, Jimbaran, Kec. Kuta Sel., Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361, Indonesia
https://www.raffles.com/bali/
The Food
Ubud
- Guling Samsam Merekak
- Bebek Bengil
- Nusantara
- The Powder Room by R4D
- Blanco Par Mandiff
- Seniman Coffee
Guling Samsam Merekak
For the Balinese classic dish Babi Guling, Guling Samsam Merekak was recommended to me. Situated down a narrow footpath, this restaurant offers a nice seating area though I chose to do a takeaway that day.
Guling Samsam Merekak offers several meal options.
Very satisfying, felt very local and a place to return to.
Guling Samsam Merekak
Br.blungbang, Penarungan, Kec Mengwi
Kebupaten Badung, Bali
Bebek Bengil
Dirty Duck Diner, The Original Crispy Duck since 1990
I wasn’t sure if Bebek Bengil would still be what I remembered it to be. I first dined here in the early 2000’s. However, I popped in for a quick lunch and was not disappointed. The grounds are still well maintained and the food was still good.
SG Butler Tip: If you are in a large group, this is still a good option. Ask for a table with a view of the padi field.
What I ordered:
Ayam Kampung Kampung Bakar with Sambal Hijau
(Grilled free range chicken with steamed rice, vegetables and green chilli sambal)
Cost 110,000 Rp.
Bebek Bengil
The original crispy duck since 1990
Cost 155,000 Rp.
Total bill for 2 persons with drinks 401,720Rp.
Bebek Bengil
Jl. Hanoman, Ubud, Kecamatan
Ubud Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali 80571
Nusantara by Locavore
Nusantara is run by the Locavore group. Offering Indonesian classics, this was a very enjoyable meal for me. From the wide food menu selection to the selection of cocktails both alcoholic and non-alcoholic this was a great start to my first evening in Ubud.
On offer is a set menu available for the whole table at Rp. 450++ . As I was on my own, I opted for the la carte menu. Choose from a selection of small and large plates.
I decided on a few small plates and ordered the selection of sambal. What a treat to taste such a variety of flavours.
Perkedel Nike (Manado, North Sulawesi) Rp. 75
Corn fritters seasoned with salted fish, turmeric leaves, leek and kaffir lime leaves served with sambal dabu dabu.
Jukut Kelor Mesanten (Munggu, South Bali) Rp. 90
Moringa leaves, base genep and torch ginger cooked in a young coconut over an open wood fire.
Berbagi Rasa
Selection of Sambal (Rp.75)
Sambal Rampah
Shallots, garlic, chillies, turmeric, candlenuts, turmeric leaves and kaffir lime leaves
Sambal Terong
Eggplant, shallots, garlic, chillies & shrimp paste
Sambal Tuktuk
Shallots, chillies, garlic, tomatoes, torch ginger, candlenuts & andaliman pepper
Sambal Cakalang
Shredded smoked mackerel, shallots, garlic, chillies, kaffir lime leaves & shrimp paste
Sambal Kukus
Shallots, garlic, chillies, torch ginger stem, shrimp paste, kaffir lime leaves & coconut oil
Food here is served family style and really is a lovely local experience of traditional dishes.
Nusantara by Locavore
Jl. Dewisita No. 09C
Ubud, Kecamatan Ubud
Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali 80571
Powder Room by R4D
If dessert is your thing, do make a reservation at Will Goldfarb’s Room For Dessert. As my schedule was tight for me I went the café located next to Room For Dessert called The Powder Room. I enjoyed their Fried Chicken Bomboloni. A perfect afternoon snack!
Chill vibes at this cosy spot.
Powder Room by R4D
Jl. Raya Sanggingan
Kedewatan
Kecamatan Ubud
Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali 80561
Blanco Par Mandiff
Note: Blanco Par Mandiff closed in 2024.
I am still sharing my experience as I thought I had an excellent meal here. The young team is now based in Bandung awaiting a new restaurant by Chef Mandiff.
My meal comprised:
A selection of snacks
which included delicious Long Beans with Grated Coconut & Sambal Aioli (featured picture), Napa Cabbage, Mushroom Tart and Chicken Liver Pate with Chilli Jam.
Tahu Telor
Blanco Par Mandiff’s version of the Tahu Telor. Chef uses tofu, salmon roe, dried ebi, dashi with white wine sabayon.
Blanco Asinan
seasonal fruits & vegetables with cashew nut sauce.
Binte Biluhuta
an Indonesian corn soup originating from the Sulawesi islands is served with tiger prawn, coconut, sweet corn, kemangi and calamansi.
Smoked Octopus
served with rolled potato, roasted onion, squid ink emulsion and dabu dabu (a salsa from Manado).
Mangut Mekajiki Toro
using the belly of the swordfish (traditionally cat fish is used), this Javanese dish was served with zucchini skins, chayote and five spice.
Pineapple and Bilimbi Sorbet.
A lovely palate cleanser was served in the form of a Pineapple and Bilimbi Sorbet.
Lamb Rack and 14 day aged Smoked Duck Breast
These were the last of the main courses.
BLANCO par Mandif
Kompleks Museum Blanco, Jl. Raya Tjampuhan,
Ubud, Sayan, Kec. Gianyar, Kabupaten Gianyar,
Bali 80571, Indonesia
Seniman Coffee
I found my way to Seniman Coffee in Ubud. Chill over Rosella Flower Tea or choose from a selection of pour overs. Loved the vibes. Pastries, local eats are available.
Seniman Coffee
Jl. Sri Wedari No.5
Banjar Taman Kelod
Kecamatan Ubud
Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali 80571
SEMINYAK & PERERENAN
The dining options in and around Seminyak were excellent. This is what I covered:
- Bumbu
- 32Do
- Potato Head (Kaum, the Bar)
- La Lucciola
- Baro Bakery
- Home by Chef Wayan
Bumbu
This came recommended by a friend. A meal here is not only elegant but one that was a culinary delight.
Dishes I ordered :
Choi Pan Pontianak (Kalimantan)
Steamed rice flour dumplings, filled with jicama, dried ebi, spring onion and chilli & garlic. This was similar to the Teochew Soon Kueh except that the dumpling skin was thicker and more sticky.
Udang Tim Ketumbar (Sumatra)
Steamed prawn and glass noodles in banana leaf with coconut and coriander. This was the “you must order this dish and inhale it for me” dish that my friend commanded me to order. Absolutely delicious. The glass noodles were steamed just right and the coconut and coriander marinade was a great combination.
Mixed Vegetarian Platter (Java)
Always delicious to have local vegetables
Bambu
Jl. Petitenget No. 198
Kerobokan Kelod
Kec. Kuta Utara, Kabupaten
Badung
Bali 80361
32Do
A coffee experience that is definitely one to remember. For the Instagram lover, this will be a joy.
Walk through a corridor with water cascading down, be greeted by a spacious café with pastries, coffee gadgets and a bar. A very Korean influenced café.
32Do
Jl. Lb. Sari
Jl. Petitenget No. 77
Kerobokan Kelod
Kec. Kuta Utara
Kabupaten Badung
Bali 80361
Potato Head
There is a cover charge from 4:30pm to 7pm (this includes 1 drink), but heading to this iconic beach club which opened in 2010 is still an experience. People watch, chill under the stars, dine at Kaum (for excellent Indonesian food) or take a dip in the infinity pool.
I headed here for a pre-dinner tipple – felt old but had fun nonetheless.
Brainchild of Ronald Akili. Designed by Andra Matin.
SG Butler Tip: For those who want the full experience, Potato Head Suits (2015) and Potato Head Studios (2021) are adjacent.
Potato Head
Jalan Petitenget
51B Seminyak
Bali 80361
La Lucciola
Timeless Italian with that fabulous view. La Lucciola has been welcoming guests for over 30 years.
La Lucciola scores on its venue, chic service and a very good Cacio e Pepe. Their homemade chilli and olive oil was heavenly.
La Lucciola
Kerobokan
Jalan Kayu Aya
Seminyak
Baro Bakery
Located next to Canggu is Pererenan, a quiet neighbourhood by the sea. Head here for Baro Bakery. Breakfast was relaxing and cosy (it does get crowded so avoid peak hours). Dig into a great selection of fresh bakes, including their signature Spelt & Sourdough.
Butter & Jam
Loved the seasonal fruit jam – passion fruit, guava & mango. Absolutely delicious. I would come back again just for the jam.
Kielbasa Roll
The Polish sausage (this version uses chicken meat) is wrapped in puff pastry and served with organic salad, housemade sambal and pickles.
Sai Oua Empanada
A wonderful empanada using the popular Northern Thai sausage.
Baro Bakery is helmed by Emerson Manibo (who worked at Tartine in New York).
Baro Bakery
Jl Pantai Pererenan
No. 147 Pererenan
Kec. Mengwi
Kabupaten Bandung
Bali 80351
Home by Chef Wayan
Chef Wayan Kresna Yasa offers heartwarming Indonesian and Balinese classics at this casual open air café in Pererenan. Having come from Baro Bakery (just down the road), this was a great spot for lunch.
Sambal Mbe – Balinese shallots sambal
Sambal Matah – A combination of chillies, shallots, lime juice and coconut oi. Matah means raw or fresh.
Sambal Tuug – Roasted eggplant sambal
Babi Bali
The pork cheek was cooked just right, with ginger, turmeric and bumbu Bali – very addictive.
Home by Chef Wayan
Jl. Pantai Pererenan No. 92
Pererenan, Kec. Mengwi
Kabupaten
Badung
Bali 80361
JIMBARAN BAY
Rumari
Meaning the house of the sun and the full moon, Rumari is the main dining restaurant at the Raffles Bali. With amazing views of the forest and Jimbaran Bay, Rumari transforms from breakfast dining to a unique dining experience at night.
Helmed by Chef Gaetan Biesuz, an evening here is a showcase of Balinese ingredients.
Your evening starts with Japanese origami – this presents the story of the restaurant, including the name of Rumari itself, its philosophy of sourcing ingredients with the 80/20 rules (80% from the Indonesian archipelago and 20% imported ingredients) and the Balinese philosophy of life called Tri Hita Karana (3 causes of well being) – harmony with God, harmony amongst the people and harmony with nature. With this in mind, let your dining experience begin.
Cashew Dip
Freshly baked sourdough was served with cashew paste made from fresh cashews from Muntigunung, stingless bee honey, sambal merah and kaffir lime and daun kemangi.
Brebes Organic Duck Confit
Sitting atop the egg confit were coconut, pickles and a delish crispy duck skin and Kristal caviar.
Chawanmushi
Chef Biesuz’s Chawanmushi is enveloped with Padang curry and charcoal grilled octopus. Served alongside were homemade rice crackers and cekur garlic.
Mud Crab
A fusion of delicate mud crab with pomelo and Padang sauce.
Ocean Perch
Steamed table side, this was a beautiful dish. With fresh vegetables and herbs, each fish fillet was wrapped in banana leaf and allowed to infuse with the herbs and vegetables.
SG Butler Tip: Head here for an early dinner and enjoy a cocktail at the verandah before dinner.
The Raffles hotel in Bali opened officially in December 2021. Rumari was appointed Krug Ambassade in 2022.
Rumari
Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera No. 1A
Jimbaran, Kec. Kuta Sel., Kabupaten
Bandung
Bali 80361
This is a non-sponsored review.
All content, including but not limited to photographs and text are by the Singapore Butler Pte Ltd unless otherwise stated. Permission is required for reproduction.
Otherwise, feel free to contact us for any questions or recommendations.
